- Why should I use a broker?
- Why should I do business with Ross Altman?
- Who are some of the lenders with whom you do business?
- Why do interest rates go up and down all the time?
- Why should I do a no point, no fee loan?
- What is an IRS 4506T?
- What documents will I need?
- What is a FICO Score?
- What about down payment?
- Do I need Private Mortgage Insurance?
- What is pre qualifying?
- What is pre approval?
- What is a Rate Lock?
- Is the lender you find for me going to resell my loan?
- What if the lender you find or someone they sell my loan to goes out of business?
7 reasons why it pays to do business with Ross Altman, a mortgage broker!
- I am extremely knowledgeable of programs and guidlines to meet your needs..
- I do the shopping for you from an approval list of over 100 qualified lenders.
- Because of the diversity, the opportunities for loan applicants to qualify are greatly improved.
- I have access to the most competitive adjustable and fixed-rate loans, including Easy Qualifiers Super Jumbo's (larger home loans), VA, and Home Equity Loans.
- My objective is to provide the lowest cost home financing for the best available product to meet your needs with no surprises at closing. You can depend on the rate quoted at lock in and the fees on
your Good-Faith-Estimate to be what you receive at closing. .
- Because I am approved with many lenders I am not forced to recommend one set of loan programs but can go to any of the approved lenders to find the best loan. A savings and loan or bank does not do
this. Therefore you might not be aware of a program that is out there to meet your needs.
- I do my best to make your loan closing fast and hassle free and attend my closings. This enables me to communicate to you more affectively and it holds me to be more accountable to you. If the loan
does not close I do not get paid! Now you know my incentive
No-Point No-Fee Home Financing Advantage!
Maybe you are thinking of refinancing but you think rates are going to decline some more this year.
What should you do? Suppose you have an $250,000 adjustable mortgage with a lifetime cap of 10%; your monthly payment can go to $2,193. Your current adjustable rate is 7.5%, the monthly payment is $1,748 and
may go to 8.5% during the next year, your payment will increase to $1,922.
The No-Point No-Fee Advantage:
If you can refinance your home @ 7.875% payment of $1,812 fixed for 7 years you can avoid the risk associated with an adjustable and if rates fall you can refinance once again.
Why? By not paying the loan points and closing costs out of your pocket you have the financial flexibility to refinance once again if interest rates continue to go down.
Your new rate of 7.875% cannot go any higher for 7 years but if rates fall
to, say, 7.5% or 7% you can refinance again & again and continue to lower your monthly payments without spending anything. The No-Point, No-Fee loan program is a quirk which solely favors the borrower in a declining rate market.
This is an opportunity to actually "get something for nothing".
IRS Forms 4506T and 8821
IRS 4506T and 8821 are forms which allow the lender to receive an electronic abstract of your tax returns.
In this day of scanners, laser printers, and tax preparation software it is easy to prepare a set of "phony" tax returns to submit to the lender. This form's purpose is to keep everyone
honest. If you give me tax returns they better be the same ones you sent IRS. You will not get a loan if you're unwilling to sign this form. This is not open for discussion.
Please understand that this does not mean that any information is being provided to IRS. The information comes from IRS.
Necessary documentation.
We always attempt to do "alternate documentation".
For Salaried Borrowers:
- last 2 year's W-2s
- pay stubs for past 1 month
- statements for all significant asset accounts for the past 2 months
- complete Federal tax returns for past 2 years if: you own rental property or if more than 25% of your income is from commissions.
- automated underwriting my eliminate some of the above documentation.
For Self-employed Borrowers:
- Complete Federal tax returns for past 2 years (this must include all pages). Be sure to include all K-1s (partnerships) even if you did not include it with your return.
- Year-to-date Profit and loss statement
- last 2 months statements for all significant asset accounts.
- automated underwriting my eliminate some of the above documentation.
In either case if you own other residential real estate which you rent you may need to present lease agreements and I always need your 1040s for the past 2
years. If your tax returns are "on extension" I need a copy of the request for extension.
If this is a purchase transaction I need a fully executed copy (signed by both parties) of the sales contract.
What is a FICO Score?
FICO scores are numeric representations of your credit profile. The higher the FICO score the better credit risk you are.
FICO is a product of Fair Isaac Company. These have been around for several years but started to be used in the mortgage lending business in 1995 for the purpose of keeping down the expense
associated with Home Equity loans. You needed a certain minimum score to get such a loan.
FHLMC and FNMA both insist on a FICO score on your credit report. Presumably, you can be denied a mortgage loan if your score is too low. People will be unhappy as a result and our elected officials
will find a new cause to protect us from. I can say the following about these scores:
- they are based on years of computer modeling aimed at predicting who might be a credit risk.
- their purpose is to reduce the cost of examining a credit report and speed mortgage approvals.
- when your FICO is computed the program tells the credit bureau what the 4 most important factors were in determining the score.
- Fair, Isaac and the credit bureaus do not want to reveal how these scores are computed. The Federal Trade Commission has ruled this to be OK.
- The important negative factors are: bankruptcies, delinquencies, credit lates,collections, too many "tapped out" credit lines, "too much" credit, too little credit history.
- the score is only as good as the data. The amount of credit data history is so large that there are problems with it. The most common problem that I see is with relatives with the same name who live at
the same address (father and son).
- Borrowers often dispute the data but it is very accurate.
- It is more important than ever to keep a good or perfect credit history.
- Even the very act of getting a credit inquiry is said to lower the FICO score (very slightly) so it is important to not authorize someone to obtain your credit report unless it is necessary.
Down payment
You can get a home with as little as 5% down payment . If your down payment is less than 20% of the purchase price, or 20% of the appraisal for a refinance you will need Private Insurance (PMI).
The down payment must be well-documented. That is, you must show, for example, bank statements proving that you have had the money for at least 2
months. If the source of the down payment is a gift from a relative you will need:
- a "gift letter"
- copy of the check from them to you and a copy of the deposit slip showing it going into your account.
The purpose of all this is to make sure that the down payment is not a loan and most especially not coming from the seller.
Some of my lenders:
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Franklin American Bank Metlife Chase Citibank
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Flagstar EverBank Nextbankr
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US Bank Mortgageit ING Wells Fargo Bank of Americat Provident Funding
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Why do interest rates go up and down all the time?
Because lenders pool loans into securities and then sell them in "the secondary market" they are competing with
the entire pool of worldwide investment opportunities. Any inflationary news translates into smaller values for fixed-rate securities and necessitates a rise in mortgage interest rates.
Thus, people in the mortgage business are hoping for lousy economic news which translates into little or no inflation and low mortgage interest rates.
Why should I do business with Ross Altman?
My rates are posted. Alternatively, you can pick up the phone and start calling lenders or brokers. Believe it or
not, people sometimes quote you a "lowball" rate to attract your business. If you call enough people and
decide to go with the lowest quote you may have chosen to do business with the biggest liar. Their idea is to
quote an unrealistically low rate, get your application, and then either hope rates fall or explain to you that "rates went up".
I make my rates public. I can't be quoting you, a prospective client, a lower rate than I am getting my clients whose rates I am locking.
I feel that this is one of the problems of doing business on the Net.
Private Mortgage Insurance
Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI) is needed on all loans where the loan-to-value (the loan amount divided by
the value of the property) exceeds 80%. (There are some examples of "self-insured" loans where the rate is increased and there is no formal PMI but you pay one way or another.)
The mortgage insurance premium depends on the loan-to-value ratio. For example: 80.01%-85.00%, 85.01%
to 90.00% and 90.01% to 95.00% each step costing more. The mortgage insurance also depends on the loan amount and the type of loan.
Adjustable rate loans have higher premiums than fixed rate loans. At the present time you can choose between monthly and annual premiums.
The PMI is given by a different party than the lender. Your lender will send a copy of your loan application
package to the PMI company for their approval. Among the loan documents you will sign at closing is a PMI agreement. Your lender will "impound" the PMI payment along with your principal and interest.
It is usual that when your loan-to-value equals or exceeds 80.1% your property tax and insurance is also impounded.
PMI policies usually have "escape" clauses describing under what conditions you can stop paying PMI. It is necessary that you read the PMI policy to determine this. Make no assumptions.
Pre qualifying
Pre qualifying is a process whereby a loan officer takes information about you, either over the telephone or
face-to-face and indicates how big a loan of a particular type you will qualify for. The lender would then give
you a "pre-qualifying letter" which is of considerable value in dealing with a Realtor or a potential seller.
Realtors and sellers are interested in dealing with people whom they know to be able to get the loan necessary to close the deal.
Pre-Approval
Pre-approval is a step beyond pre qualifying. In a pre approval I send the credit part of the loan package to the lender and get you approved for a certain type of loan with a particular lender beforeĀ you have found or
made an offer on a property.
With a pre approval you can close the loan faster and often will find your offer more acceptable to the seller.
Sometimes sellers are anxious and will take somewhat less in price from someone who can close quickly.
Rate Locks
The rates you see on this web site are always quoted (unless otherwise noted) for 30 day rate locks. The
interest rate on your loan is not set until I fax a "Rate Lock" form to the lender and receive confirmation that
they have received it. The loan must fund before the "lock expiration" date or you can lose your rate lock.
When I am locking your rate and discussing the lock expiration date it is important that both borrowers be
available to sign the documents. You must tell me of your vacation and travel plans. If one borrower will be out
of town I can have a "specific power of attorney" prepared so that the other person may sign for both.
You can lock your rate before your loan is approved, you can even lock your rate before your loan is
submitted. You can get a 45 and 60 day rate lock for an extra minimal charge. It must be noted that the cost
for extended locks can vary significantly with the volatility of the market. When rates are volatile long term locks are more expensive.
Long-term locks
You can lock rates in (on purchases) for a long period. Here is an example of long term locks:
- 120 day
- 180 day
- 270 day
- 360 day
Is my loan going to get sold?
You should assume that your loan will be sold. The good thing about this is that the marketability of pools of
loans as "Mortgage Backed Securities" has led to lower rates. The annoying thing is that your loan may get sold
a couple of times in the first year and you have to keep track of whom you have to pay. This is an
inconvenience, particularly since they may be in another state and time zone. But it is an inconvenience that we all put up with for the sake of lower rates.
As part of the loan documents you will be asked to sign a form granting recognition to the fact that your loan
may be sold. You will also be provided with a form from the lender indicating what percentage of their loans have been resold in recent years.
Keep in mind that there is a Federal regulation which gives you the ability to make payments to your old lender
for a period of time after your loan is sold. This will protect you from having your payment reported as "late" if
you send it to the old lender soon after it is sold. Protect your rights in this regard.
What if my lender goes out of business?
People sometimes ask: If the lender you find for me goes out of business or becomes insolvent, can I be forced
to pay my loan off early? The answer is No, never. If the ownership of your loan is transferred because of
failure it is still governed by the original note and deed of trust. Your note cannot be accelerated and your rate
cannot be modified as a result of the failure. (This is not true of the savings or CD account you might have with
a failed institution. In this situation. the principal may be guaranteed but the interest isn't.)
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